Nepal Part 2, The People

In my previous post I mentioned that I was mesmerized by the people of Nepal. A diverse cultural mix that came originally from Mongolia, Tibet, China, Asia, Pakistan, India, and other more distant regions. An extremely giving society, they are a majority Hindu and Buddhist. The villagers in the high valleys we walked through from Manaslu to the Annapurna circuit were Buddhist, and the lower villages and towns a mix, even on an individual basis.

These photographs are my attempt to relay the happiness, strength, and beauty of all the people we met and who shared our journey.

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Collecting Water, Machakhola

Carrying Rice, Bahumdanda

The Wheat Harvest, Lho

Sometimes a four day walk home for the annual Dashain Festival

Amaryinth Cutting

Making Gravel

Collecting Grasses on the Edge

Monks at Mu Gompa, Tsum Valley

Late for Morning Prayers, Mu Gompa

Yes, probably about 150 pounds

86 Years Old, 50 lbs, up a steep stone staircase, Bahumdanda

30 Kilos of rice on a bundle of wheat

Hauling rocks for a new house

Sorting and Sifting, High in the Tsum Valley

Karna Rana, the businessman in Kathmandu

The team, top of Larkya Pass, 17,100ft.

Our guide Chandra Gurung tying prayer flags on the pass.

Dill and Aishing, two of our porters who carried double packs every day.

Hari, our third porter.

With his load.

The Girls with blessings, Megan, Nancy, and Donette. Kathmandu bus station.

Mark and the daily ritual, packing the TP in the day bag. Don't go ANYWHERE without it. 

No stress here, Ray enjoying a break.

Some of the women who fed and sheltered us and we met along the way:

Thulu Dungha

Jagat

Arughat

She had a bad eye infection that we tried to help with medicines.

Dorje Lama, just a sweetheart, Chekhampara, Tsum Valley

Merchant in the Kathmandu market

Arughat Bazaar

Soti Khola

Machakhola

Hacky Sack with what you have available

 The Youth:

The Men:

He's everywhere

 A Hindu Sadhu at Pashupatinath, the last 38 years in one place.

Circling Boudhanath Temple

Pushapatinath Cremation Temple, Kathmandu

A woman washes her face as a loved one awaits the next life.

Men clean wash the ashes from a pyre.

They loved to see the images on the screen.

Nepal Part 1, Big Mountains

Somewhere around 1978 I read Peter Matthiessen's novel "The Snow Leopard" I knew then that somehow I would get to the Himalayan mountains in Nepal. Years passed, I re-read his stories a few more times, and thanks to some urging from friends finally made the journey to the other side of the world.
What I knew was that we were in for a fantastic trip, big mountains, new culture, some real experiences far from home. What I didn't prepare for was the beauty of a place that is overwhelming physically and emotionally. I went for the mountains, but came home with the people.
Nepalis are some of the kindest, happiest, most generous people I have ever met. They live close to the land, celebrating life every day through their work and religion that is shared through their smiles and wonderfully calm and content attitudes. Day after day we met men, women, and children who greeted us with "Namaste".  In over three weeks I never witnessed anxiety, stress, or anger.
Six of us from San Luis Obispo spent three weeks walking around Manaslu Himal, the 8th. highest mountain in the world. We  trekked into a high valley close to Tibet that has been open to westerners for only a few years. We stayed with the local people, sometimes in their homes, sometimes in monasteries. With very few modern amenities they provided us a place to stay, and delicious meals every day.
We walked on average 8 to 10 miles per day, climbed a total of 84,000 feet, and crossed a high pass at 17,000ft. The numbers meant nothing, we just walked in and out of small villages, past small farms, up a gigantic river gorge, shadowed by the highest ranges on earth.
Thanks have to be given to the Nepalis who shepherded us, Karna owner of Mother House Trekking in Kathmandu, Chandra our perfect guide, Aishing, Hari, and Dill our dedicated porters, and to every smiling local who shared their home with us. Nancy and I are really grateful to Ray and Donette and Mark and Megan who joined us, they organized, laughed, and waited for me taking photos.
Photographically it was a dream. I came home with over 3500 images even after editing on a nightly basis. Many times I had to just stop taking pictures. I will try to convey the scale, the enormity of the place, and the kindness and hardships of the people, but in the end I don't think it's possible.
Please take your time to look at these, make a cup of coffee or tea, and enjoy. This is part one.

The Big Mountains
The High Himalayas are visually in a place where only clouds should be. My first view of Shiringi Himal brought me to tears. Green forested mountainsides rise from deep gorges and high valleys to the 10,000ft. elevation, then peaks more than twice as high lift into the deep blue sky, permanent ice and rock. From the highest mountains on earth Buddhists Gods reside there watching over.

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Sunrise on Manaslu Himal, 26,758
First sun rays on the planet.  

The Ganesh Himal from Mu Gompa, Tsum Valley
Ten thousand vertical feet of ice.

High up on Pashubo Himal from Chhule Nile, Tsum Valley.

A kiss below Shiringi Himal, 23,500ft.

Moonset, Nyingmapa Monastery

Sunrise, Manaslu
An unearthly golden sunrise is reflected on the spires and roofs of the gompas.

Nuns return home from a resupply, high above the Tsum Valley. 12,200ft. Mu Gompa.

Full moon and sunrise,  Larkye Peak

Collecting Dung at 12,600ft. Samdo.
A Tibetan woman picks fresh Yak Dung predawn to cook and heat with. Somewhere around 30 degrees.

Tibetan Ponies high above the Budhi Gandaki River, Samdo.

Ray, Donette, and Megan below Larkye Peak

Nancy leads Aishing on the climb to high camp below the North spur of Naike Peak.

The Night Sky at Dharamsala High Camp, Larkye Phedi
Just a few stars, at 14,600ft the stars are touchable. I didn't see the shooting star until later.

The North Ridge of Phungi Himal from Bim Phedi.
Scale is impossible there.
The man is standing at 12,000ft. a quarter mile away. The peak is 20,500ft. ten miles away.

Annapurna II, 26,040ft. from below Larkye Pass
We dropped 5000 feet in an afternoon, between the Manaslu and Annapurna ranges.

Himlung Peak after Sunset. Bim Phedi.
Light stays on the peaks long after the sun sets.

Northwest face of Manaslu and Phungi. Bimphedi.
The peaks share the evening sky with the stars.

Kechakyu Himal from Bim Phedi
An unnamed peak catches the sun in the "bluest blue".